Reviews

Surrey Today – Leatherhead Advertiser

Eating out: The Bell, Fetcham

Thursday, April 01, 2010, 10:41

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After his time with the Metropolitan Police, Mark Thornhill decided to move to America and start afresh in the restaurant trade with wife Penny and their two children.

There, Mark linked up with Coffee Republic to run its operations in Florida and also worked closely with Disney.

Six years on Mark and his family returned home and he was hired to run a pub in Hampshire.

It was here where he met chef Tim Frith who trained in some of the most acclaimed restaurants in the south of England.

So when Mark was hired by Young's Brewery to run The Bell last November, he wanted Tim to run the kitchens.

We visited The Bell on a Friday night for dinner. It has a most imposing and impressive presence and the couple are keen to make it a focal point of social life in the village. Its terrace area at the front is ideal for a relaxed drink, light meal or snack. But it is the pub's stylish and well-appointed restaurant which is the real stand-out.

The restaurant is bright and airy, with plenty of wood panelling. Mark said he had not done much by way of a refurb since taking over, though had "tidied up" things. The couple have invested heavily in service and staff training and it shows.

While retaining some of Young's core menu items, Mark has given Tim a free hand in taking the menu decidedly upmarket with a sprinkling of healthier food options.

We munched on a serving of fresh toasted garlic bread as we mulled over the menu.

While my wife settled on tiger prawns, in a spiced crumb with orange salsa (£6.25) as her starter, I chose salmon and smoked haddock fish cakes, served on a bed of spinach and lemon and parsley butter sauce (also £6.25).

Both were delicious, their presentation being matched by their quality and taste.

I chose an 8oz West Country beef burger (with bacon and cheese fillings) as my main course and my partner chose a house speciality – fish in Young's beer batter (both items priced at £10.40). While hers arrived with chips and mushy peas, my rather enormous beef burger, served in a soft flour bun, came embellished with red onion relish and chips. We also requested two additional side orders – bowls of seasonal veg and chips (£2 apiece).

Dessert followed at a leisurely pace, with my wife ordering sticky toffee pudding (£5), opting for a topping of custard and I asked for a selection of Beechdean dairy ice cream (£4.45)

Child-friendly, it offers most dishes as children's portions at a reduced rate.

There will be special meals and promotions for Easter Sunday (April 4), and on St George's Day, Friday, April 23.

Alf De Araujo

Rating: Four stars
Cost for two: £48.75 (inc. desserts but not drinks )
Service charge: No (discretionary)
Wine: Extensive choice
Vegetarian: Large selection
Parking: Large facility in the grounds
Disabled access: Yes
Service: Courteous and professional
Value for money: Yes

The Bell
Bell Lane, Fetcham, Surrey. KT22 9ND Tel: 01372 372624